A Dodecanese chronicle — before the off
Day Zero
Serenissima: a Fountaine Pajot Alegria 67, and home for the week.
Kos · The Dodecanese · Greece
Serenissima at anchor — the office for the week
Before the first anchorage, a proper introduction to the lady of the trip.
She is a Fountaine Pajot Alegria 67, launched in 2019: twenty metres of catamaran, which in practice means the deck space of a small village square that happens to do ten knots. Being a cat, she sails flat, so drinks stay on tables and books stay open. Her draft is a shallow 1.7 metres, which lets her tuck into bays and creep close to beaches that keelboats can only admire from a distance. Air conditioning and wi-fi throughout, for better or worse.
The saloon runs the full width of the boat: lounge, dining space, and a wall of glass on every side so no one misses the view while pretending to read. The chef's galley is on the same level, which is deliberate — you get front-row seats to dinner being built. There is a large flatscreen TV, though the windows tend to win.
The flybridge up top is the showpiece: an "ocean terrace" with seating, tables and sunpads, and the best view on the boat. The foredeck has twin trampolines and sunken seating built for sunset drinks. And the aft cockpit is the everyday heart of her: banquette seating, a big alfresco dining table, and a day bed that will host the trip's most competitive napping.
Ten guests sleep in five cabins: a master suite and four queen-size doubles, every one with its own ensuite bathroom, electric heads included. The décor is crisp and chic — timber panelling, neutral tones, and enough storage that the suitcase disappears on day one. The charter brochures keep the cabin photos to themselves, so the frames below wait for our own.
Serenissima carries a serious toy collection, and the crew are quick to launch it. Highlights for guests:
Her shallow 1.7m draft means beach drop-offs most yachts cannot do — expect the captain to anchor close enough to swim ashore. Air conditioning runs throughout, and the wi-fi works well enough that you will want to pretend it does not.
Three crew look after the ten of us: a captain, a chef whose galley sits in the middle of the saloon for good reason, and a stewardess who will know everyone's coffee order by the second morning.
The captain deserves his own paragraph. Jiorgos Kourtelis has been sailing since he was nine, racing Lasers and Optimists before taking his first command at nineteen. He has crossed the Atlantic twelve times, sailed the Med, the Caribbean, the west coast of Africa and the Pacific coast of Central America, and in 2001 was decorated with a first-class Medal of Honour by the Greek Ministry of Merchant Marine for his part in rescuing passengers from the ferry Samina. He flies ultralight aeroplanes and builds wooden models in his spare time. Ask him for a story; you will get several.
A last look before we take her out ourselves. The listing photographers had good weather; we intend to have better.
Lines off soon. Day One begins where this page ends.